GREECE18_CRETE
DAY 11-15 | CRETE, Chania
DAY 11 | September 9, 18
We arrived on the Island of Crete around 6:00 A.M. where we departed and headed for Chania, Crete. The van took us on a sunrise drive where the colors and clouds through the mountains were a sight to behold. The sun rose behind the clouds lacing them with traces of reds, yellows, pinks and purples. We arrived in Chania around 10:00 A.M. where we wandered the town as we waited for the hotel rooms to be finished. The town of Chania is a small ocean front town. The harbor faces the main square where you will find a chain of restaurants and shops that circle the entrance of the sea. After exploring we headed back to the hotel and off to the beach. After about a 20 walk we finally arrived where we found white sandy beaches and blue turquoise water. Many people were swimming when we arrived. The water had no waves only gentle rolls, which allowed you to swim and literally float and was an incredibly refreshing temperature. There is nothing like closing your eyes, floating in the water and listening to the sound of the crashing waves along the beaches. After swimming for a few hours we found ourselves at a small Italian restaurant where we watched the sunset before heading back.
DAY 12 | September 10, 18
Today we started off by running at 6 A.M. through the downtown of Chania. It’s crazy how the city begins to take on a completely different vibe and feeling when you stroll it’s streets before the sun awakens. What was once alive and full of life is quiet, still and in some ways almost eerie.
We left the hotel for the ferry at 8:00 A.M. Along the way we passed through a windy rode that takes you up and down through the miles of mountains. Very few buildings can be found in this wild countryside. At one point we had to stop due to what must have been 100 sheep running down the road; their Shepard ushering them calmly to continue on their way. As we made our way down the snake like road, we arrived at a tiny city called Sfakia, where we would board the ferry. The water of the Aegean Sea is the most turquoise water I have ever seen. The sea surrounded by the white buildings and multicolored windows are a sight to behold.
We passed by one other small town whose blue statement buildings leave you feeling as though you’ve entered some sort of ocean side dreamland. When we finally arrived in Agia Rouneli; a small-secluded village located 56 km south of Chania city. It is a part of the mountainous landscape of Sfakia province. This is one of the smallest towns we have seen so far and definitely a tourist destination. Apparently it closes down during the winter seasons, however due to its small size, you feel as though you are on a private island. Our hotel is stationed literally on the beach, which means one small hop, skip and a jump and you’ll find yourself sitting in the sand.
After grabbing lunch, a group of us headed out for famous hike called, The Gorge; which is basically as the name states… a giant gorge. The mountains on both your right and left tower overhead as you pass through what was once, and will be again, a rapid flowering body of water. The hike is normally five hours. There are thousands of uneven rocks that require you to use any sure-footed skills you may have to avoid eating crap. Other then that it is incredibly beautiful to be surrounded by giant trees, towering walls of mountainous rock, and the sounds of quiet nature that include a few goats, insects and the occasional mule or too. After completing the hike in what we like to think of as record time, we headed down to what would appear to be our own private beach.
This beach in the Aegean Sea is like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. The water here feels light and airy. The sand goes from one foot of water to five feet deeper within a few steps. As you dive into the turquoise water you can see all of the rocks and shapes underneath you; the water is extremely clean. The gentle rolling waves are probably the most mellow and soft, that I have ever encountered. You can literally sit, float or swim around with perfect ease. It’s incredible to be swimming fifteen feet away in a pool of the most vibrantly blue turquoise ocean water you can imagine, surrounded by cliffs and mountain ranges, a sunset painted sky and a historic fortress; you think to yourself, ‘is this real life?’
Later that day we were treated to an amazing 4-course meal of traditional Greek foods. Getting to know our fellow travelers was another highlight. I spoke a lot to this amazing couple, married nearly 50 years, whose story is one that deserves a novel. Having migrated from Georgia, Russia, nearly 25 years ago, they have encountered many different trials and successes; I find talking to them to be extremely inspiring. Ujean, I learned, was a sprinter in his youth. Like myself, he competed in the 100, 200, 4x1 relay and long jump. To this day he coaches Athletes in Canada. I didn’t realize that outside of the U.S. there are international athlete programs for individuals outside of college up into their 80s even. He also may or may not know someone in the Russian Mafia. The way he tells it, they will approach you and say, I need a favor. I will remember you if you do this favor. I will remember you if you do not. He didn’t finish the end of the story, but his mystery leaves defiantly leaves his audience intrigued and wanting to know more. His wife Karina is a sweet and loving woman who perfectly complements his particular personality. The night ended walking back along the ocean shoreline under the stars.
Crete, Loutro
DAY 13 | September 11, 18
I love mornings. For the past ten years or so I would say I have become a morning person who wakes up around 5:00 A.M.; there is something kind of magical about the transition between night and day; the early twilight period where the sounds, smells and feelings are completely almost unrecognizable compared to the rest of the day… like a world of it’s own. Today started off waking up to a rose tinted sunrise sky. The entire ocean line had turned the colors of red, pink, orange and a few purples. The reflection of the water turned the mountainside rocks a glowing reddish tone. It’s almost as though the morning decides to take a quick pause from reality and put on a show of it’s own. The atmosphere is still except for a few birds singing their melody and the gentle roaring of the ocean waves crashing on the black sandy beach. Even the mountainsides seem to be telling their own stories.
We took a ferry back to the small town of Loutro, Crete, where all buildings, once again, hold the iconic square white shape with blue windows. As you pull into the port, it feels as though you are entering into some Disney type world. Again, the sea is a rich, deep turquoise type blue and the hue changes as you approach closer to the shore; becoming a lighter shade of blue/green. A handful of sailboats sway on the docks; rocking back and forth to the gentle pushes of the ocean rolls.
Today we were going to be taught how to cook Masaka (a lasagna type dish) by a local Cretan family. We were brought over to a secluded tiny beach in a small boat that fit about ten people. When we arrived we were each tasked with a small part of the meal preparation; after it was finished we all took a swim in the sea while we waited for it to bake. Again, it’s amazing how the sea just drops off into deep water. But the water is perfectly clear and inviting. It’s hard to resist not jumping in.
When it was time for our meal we all sat down and enjoyed a traditional Greek dinner. The boat ride back may have been my favorite part of the day. It was nearly 9:00 P.M. when we entered back into the tiny boat. It might not be an approved boat by American standards, as it had no light and may have fit a few more people then it should have, but it created an extremely memorable experience; in fact one of my favorites so far. Into the darkness the boat began, lit only my the light of a million stars that illuminated brighter then I’ve seen in a long time through the still dark night sky. In the distance behind a mountain, I could see the crescent red moon begin to rise; from the ocean in a boat it looks larger then life. As the boat moved deeper into the sea, we seemed to be chasing the Milky Way. The sky felt and looked almost as though we were sailing through a circular dome. Looking up at the sky, you almost felt as if you were transported into another world. The sounds of the boat streaming through the water, while little splashes occasionally hit your face, are dreamlike. My only tiny hesitation was our boat having no light and us traveling along a very popular route; but it was minuscule in comparison to everything else going on around us. As we approached Loutro once more it seemed as if we were entering the town of Pirates in the Caribbean as every building was lit with a dim lantern-type light that sparkled very subtly among the stars.
DAY 14 | September 12, 18
The sunrise colors here in Loutro are incredible; vibrant colors of red, pink, yellow, blues, and purples that transform the ocean to look the same. Rain clouds hover overhead and suddenly a gentle fresh rain is heard, smelt and felt for a few minutes; fresh rain on pavement… one of my favorite smells.
Today four other people and myself decided we would go Kayaking and explore the Mediterranean shoreline as well as any sea caves we might discover. We walked down to the local (and only) Kayak rental shop in Lutro where we had reserved Kayaks from the day before. After arriving and finding no one (even though they opened at 8:00 A.M.) We waited nearly a half hour (until 9:30 A.M. or so) and decided that because a storm was supposed to come later that day around (2:00 P.M.) we would leave a note and borrow the Kayaks for a half day. So we did. I shared my Kayak with my new friend and fellow traveler, Darlene, while married couple Jim and Monique shared one and Patricia shared the only solo and literally duck shaped Kayak.
The water in Lutro is crystal clear. You can see through to the bottom almost perfectly for thirty feet or so. As we passed by the bay, pastthe boats and tiny town we stayed along the shoreline. We came across a few sea caves and of course had to enter them. The tops of the caves sparkle with the reflection of the water and a little coral can be seen peppered throughout the water.
After passing by several beaches for what may have been an hour or so we came to a tiny secluded beach (literally felt like our own private island). This beach was also the entrance to a more private gorge hike, although we didn’t have time to hike it and get back before the storm). We stayed for an hour or so, swimming, exploring sea caves, floating and climbing rocks. I found a perfect bucket seat high in rocks that overlooked the entire beach and shoreline.
When it was time to go back we started to hear the thunder rolling in. I could see why these people thought that thunder was the God’s speaking to them; it literally fills the entire sky with sounds of high pitch cracking and low bass echos. The sea got a little choppier and we joked that it was the beginning of a bad horror movie, where the sun is shinning and everything is beautiful.. until it’s not lol. Needless to say we made it back in time and beat the storm. The Kayak man lives on Greek time and was not upset in the slightest that we left a note and borrowed the Kayaks… so all was well.
Later that day we spent lunch with what Rachel and I like to call, ‘our new family’. We spent it with our Georgian couple UJean and Karina, our new friend Brenda, Darlene, Sarah and Matt. The rest of the day was spent enjoying the beach and an oceanside candlelit dinner. Rachel and I joke that we are at the most romantic place on earth; glad we get to spend it with each other.
Crete, iraklio
DAY 15 | September 13, 18
I woke up this morning to the sound of cracking lighting exploding in the sky and literally, rolling thunder that extended for nearly ten to fifteen seconds before shaking the building with the deep sounds of prolonged bass; the windows lit up with the sight of white light that flickered overhead. The smell of rain fills the room and suddenly you hear it pouring down. I love lighting and thunder and will sit for hours just watching, listening and waiting.
We took a ferry to Iraklio. There we explored the town and made our way to a water fortress; boats and onlookers surrounded the area. What amazed me most about this area though was the surrounding sunset. The sky looked like a watercolor painting surrounded by the sea that was reflecting the common theme of the deep turquoise, purples, pinks and green pastel colors that the sky carried. As we were walking I spotted a cute couple trying to take a picture of themselves, so of course I offered to help. We quickly became friends with Bridget and Eljean. Turns out they are from the bay area in CA, of all places, and were on vacation soon to visit Greece and Cairo. It was one of those moments were you think what were the chances? Turns out they have a son who wants to study graphic design, pretty much my major, so I told them about Cal Poly and their the program offering to help however I could. I learned that they were both lawyers who met in school, got married and now have two kids. It was cool to chat with them about life. As Rachel was chatting with Bridget, I asked Eljean what the number one thing was he looked for in a good lawyer; he said someone who really cares. Which is interesting because I was always told that caring too much would be a weakness in that field; it was refreshing to hear his perspective.
After chatting for what would seem nearly an hour or so Rachel and I found an amazing Asian Fusion place; we even got free desert.
