GREECE18_METEORA
DAY 6-7 | METEORA
DAY 6 | September 4, 18
Today we took a 5-hour train to Metoroa, a 3,000 year old city, whose name means to float or to be suspended in the air. Apparently a monk named Athanasios, saw the towering rocks and thought it looked as though it was floating through the fog. He could only see the tips of the rocks so he named it Metoroa. The Greek legend is that Zeus trapped and petrified the titans there. We learned that these rocks were once under water and that the monks, in order to scale them, would often put vinegar on them to speed up the erosion process. The rocks themselves are made of conglomerate sandstone, formed from the bottom of a huge prehistoric lake. Two huge rivers were emitting their deposits, because of a ring of mountains and water pressure, the conglomerate sandstone was formed around 35 million years ago. The ring of mountains later broke, the sea drained and what was left was a complex of these gigantic rocks. There are nearly 1,000 of these rocks in the area.
We passed by several towering monasteries that sat on top of these giant rock formations; they are structures for the Christian Orthodox people that date back to the 14th century. It’s amazing to think that these monks were able to scale these walls and live atop these gigantic rocks. Until the 14th century they were not able to have running water through the monastery.
The history behind how the monasteries started is along these lines; pirates would attack the monks who were Greek Orthodox and lived in the northern Greece community. The monks had heard of hermits in the caves so they moved to the rocks to find shelter. The hermits helped and gave the monks land, money and animals; so monastic bloom took place from the 14th-16th century.
We were able to visit one of the monasteries and look around inside. The one we saw had an entrance that was once by drawbridge, (as opposed to being tossed inside a human net, or a long piece of rope attached to a basket, and pulled through the air by other monks as quickly as possible, before the wind slammed you into the rocks). These monks relied on other people for food and water. Currently there are six active monasteries in the area.
They were truly beautiful, with breathtaking views. Being there it is easy to somewhat imagine how a monk could have felt close to God. You are surrounded by beauty and there are close to no distractions (minus the tourists now days). Presently, the tourists have been contributing to maintaining and sponsoring the monasteries. In some ways, is nice to think that the monks are not being disturbed without getting something back.
There is also a lot of history from WWII. Apparently Greece, and Metoroa in particular, chose to rebel against the Nazis. Because of their rebellion, the Nazis wanted to destroy the town. We visited a church they nearly burnt down that the local people were able to salvage.
We also visited a high rock, filled with caves that the monks once used to live in. Apparently the monks hid a few of the caves with camouflage from the Nazis. However one day the Nazis got drunk and starting firing at the side of the cave aimlessly. Now greenery grows where the gunshots were once fired; greenery that could never have grown before due to the rocks natural surface.
At the end of the day we visited one of the most epic places I have ever had the pleasure of watching the sunset at. Atop a high rock we that overlooked a panoramic view of the valley and the rock formations. We watched the sun set with at least 100 other people (including a couple of brides and grooms). It’s crazy to think how these 1,00 year old monasteries bring together people from all nationalities, skin colors, ages and walks of life. We watched two different couples take wedding photos with the breathtaking sunset as their backdrop.
We ended the night by celebrating Sarah’s 33rd birthday with a fantastic chocolate moose cake and champagne.
Rachel’s Thoughts: Our train ride provided lots of time to self-reflect. Athens and Greece in general is a very romantic place to be which just makes it all the funnier that Jen and I are experiencing this new place together. The group of people on our tour is interesting to say the least. We have an eclectic group of people in which I am actually empowered by the individuals who decided to come by themselves.
DAY 7 | September 5, 18
Today we left to do a 4-5 hour hike through the forest of Meteora that had been used by the monks for 1,000 years as a trading route. The hike started on a mountain called Doupiani and ended at the Saint Nicolas Anapafsas.
We stopped at a really old and tiny monastery that is tucked into the rock wall. The monks would use basil and leeches to preserve the water quality. The short summary of the story is that a few monks created it and would often switch positions with other monks in the area. During one of these ‘switches’ an armed family decided to take over. The monks came back to find the family had settled there and were forced to leave due to the fact that the family could fight back. The monks decided they must be poor and allowed them to stay; little did they know they would stay for 87 years. After the family had passed on, other monks took it over once again. Today it is kept up and run as a piece of history.
Next to this small monastery was a second monastery to the left that was destroyed by the Ottomans. 200 feet or so from, this monastery is another giant hill, atop it is a statue to honor a man named Valchavas, who started the uprising against the Ottomans who brought their cannons and destroyed the 2nd monastery. There is a statue of him and of two flags; the flag of Greece and a flag of the Greek orthodox church. The eagle is a symbol of power. The head on the right symbolizes Istanbul while the had on the left symbolizes Rome.
While continuing to walk the trail we came across a hole in the ground. We learned this was the spot that the Ottomans had dragged the cannon to. To create the hole, they would use vinegar that degrades the rock and a small hammer and chisel; how holes are formed. ;)
In this same area we also learned that the rocks are home to three Egyptian vultures that are nearly extinct. Apparently these birds have only one mate and fly from Israel to Turkey to Greece. The babies fly back to Egypt where they will stay for three years then come back to Greece as adults.
Another fun fact, because I have them, these rocks are also home to many healing types of plants. Along with herbs such as mint and thyme, you can also find a plant called Sendjonawart, which is a natural antidepressant as well as a healer for the skin.
After continuing to walk a while longer, we came to two larger monasteries; both dating back to the 14th century. One is called the Varamm; it took 70 years to build. For a long time women were not allowed or permitted to enter until there was a fire. The monks were faced with a choice to either let the women in to help or have the monastery burn. The women however broke in and put the fire out. Today nuns are allowed to enter the building. Fun fact number two… this monastery can actually be seen in a James Bond movie. Apparently, not many people knew about these monasteries until it was secretly filmed without permission of the monks.
We took an hour to explore the 2nd largest monastery in the area. Here you can find historic relics, scripts, tools, kitchen materials, paintings, Nazis propaganda posters and more all dating back to the early 13th century until now. Being a Christian, it is really interesting for me to learn about the Greek Orthodox faith. It’s also interesting for me to look at the artwork inside the monasteries. They are breathtakingly beautiful however when I look at the faces on the walls, I can’t help but wonder why they paint everyone with such angry and serious expressions? It was weird and slightly uncomfortable to have an angry Jesus staring down at me. They painted him, in my opinion, quite differently then he is depicted in the Bible... just a few of my own observations. It also in some ways, seems really strange and kind of sad to me that to be a monk, first you had to completely forget who you were before, take a new name and become an entirely new person. Second, also strange, is if a head monk chooses a monk who decides to quit (because they have free will) then the head monk is vanished and forced to leave the monastery forever. It is strange to me because God talks constantly about forgiveness and grace and there doesn’t seem to be much of it with the monks; or at least from the stories I was told.
There is another famous legend among the city about women’s hanging scarves. Apparently there was a woman, who was not Greek Orthodox, whose husband was hurt while trying to cut wood; the log fell on him. In order to save him she climbed to the top, offering her veil to the saint as a gift; praying to the saint of the rock. Her husband was healed. To this day, yearly, the local people climb to the top and leave a scarf once a year. After a year as passed, they climb back up to the top, take the old scarf and leave a new one. The year old scarf is then broken into pieces and distributed amongst the people for good luck and prosperity. It also is to highlight the presentation of climbing ability. In today’s world, there is a big dispute in the land among the monks, climbers and the government about who can do what.
Lastly we walked by a cave called Dragons Cave. The people told the monks that a dragon lived in the cave. One monk offered to sacrifice himself by falling off the monastery, as he fell he cursed the rock and the dragon was killed because the cave collapsed. This of course is fiction, in reality, the cave collapsed due to erosion by water created in the cave; however, I love the dragon story better.
Later that night, on our way to dinner, I made a new friend who I desperately wanted to take home. After petting him, he followed us from the hotel to the restaurant, relentlessly guarding us as we had dinner. He sure pulled on our heart strings; if only I could secretly fit him in my suitcase (with air holes of course).
A note from Rachel: Not taking part in the hike, I had a little hike of my own. Being the impatient person I am, I decided to walk down from the monasteries back to town. Walking down I again had plenty of time to think and process what I'd seen, not only that day but the past few days. Being on vacation is usually pretty amazing, but sometimes for me can also be a little daunting, as I typically have more time on my hands to think about all the things I typically choose to not during 'reality'. That being said, I've had some time to process those little things, which honestly hasn't been easy. But let me tell you I know I'll come back a stronger and more aware person. Gotta also hand it to Jen and her hard/direct questions.
